Wednesday, August 16, 2006

Continue Hallmarking Questions

14K B

Question: Hi ,David:

A lady asked another expert a question about what 14K B was. But I think they were not available at this time, so I seek help from you.

I also have the same experience like that lady.

My father in law gave me this silver like necklace which was clearly marked 14K B and not 14k P.

I thought it was 14K brass or something. Could you please tell me what exactly metal it is?

Answer:

G'day and many thanks for your query

Not much to go on for maker's marks but I suspect the item is simply marked with a 'B' for 'Base Metal'

Naturally I can't see, feel, weigh, test ot touch the item, but I have come across this myself over the past 35 years in the business.

It may be 14 Karat gold plated over a Base metal. Try a child's magnet and see if it jumps onto the magnet.

This test is NOT absolute of course, because it could be copper underneath - which is also NON MAGNETIC. But if it does react - it certainly isn't gold.

There are some great gold testing methods explained at the Antique 20th Century Jewelry site or you might like to try the Jewelry Hints Tips and Reviews Blog for poible answers. They are a fairly new site but seem to be getting a bit of a reputation on the web.

Hope this helps.

Historical Jewelry for the Dead

Question: Dear Mr. Foard,

I'm hoping you can help me. I would like to know where I could go to find info on historical jewelry.

It's weird, but I am looking for information about a ring that I saw. The band was made of some sort of matte black stone, with some black shiny marquis cut stone set in it. The weird thing is that it wasn't set with traditional prongs, it was sort of tied to the band with a gold wire.

I would appreciate if you could point me in the right direction.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

Sincerely,

Answer: G'day and many thanks for your query

Firstly - please don't call me Mr Foard - That was my Father! My name is David ;o)

Many of these black gemstone designed rings are what they call Mourning Rings, and were made to literally commemorate someone who had passed away. They were often seen as black enamel or (as in this case) if you are sure it was made from a matt black stone - Black Onyx or Hematite.

Occasionally these rings also had a special compartment where a lock of hair was placed and this makes me believe (although I haven't seen it) that it could have once had something underneath the gemstone.

Over time the item may have become worn or broken so someone has simply used a wire to hold the gem in place.

There are several good site with information on antique jewelry and you can always do a search on eBay for Mourning Jewelry (try Google or your Favorite search engine).

One of my frequent sites is Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century ( http://www.jewellery-antiques.com/ ) where there is a ton of articles, or you might like to try the Antique Jewelry Fair ( http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com ) as they occasionally have old jewelry like this for sale.

Hope this helps...

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Jewelry Appraisal Details

Unfortunately we get questions from clients where they have been mis-informed in the first place. This is due to a general state of apathy from sellers who once they have taken someone's money - loose sight of the 'Keep the Client Happy' mentality. Shame.

QUESTION..?

Could you give me a ball park appraisal on a pendant. Particulars are:

4.35 oval tanzanite clarity SI3-I2 color h-k
diamonds 10 round & 68 Baguette cut 1.25 CWT
Gold 5.4 grams (white gold).

It has a 14K 20" chain which I have seen priced at about $175-$200 retail.

A buddy of mine is selling this and is asking for $950.00. What do you think?


ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

Firstly it is illegal for me to give an appraisal on an item I cannot see, feel, measure or touch. You can - but I can't (read this excellent article on appraisals).

Also you mentioned it is a Tanzanite which you then state is a clarity of SI3-I2 (there is no such thing because this type of clarification is for Diamond and doesn't apply to any other gem PLUS it can't be an SI (slight Inclusion) AND I (imperfect) at the same time?

The color too is all wrong (again only for diamond) being h-k. Which one is it? H - I - J - K (as you see there are four colors here - so it can't be H-K.

I don't know where you got these figures but you need to recheck them.

You can do an appraisal yourself online at the Jewelry Appraisal Center at http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.com for a fairly modest fee ($14.95) but you will need to get the stats correct.

Hope this helps...

18K Yellow Gold Mans Diamond Ring

Sometimes we get a question from a concerned client, especially when it comes to diamonds, but in this case, we are unable to help. Maybe one of our readers might be able to shed light on this matter, as it would certainly help our 'Pool of Knowledge'.


QUESTION..?

I purchased an 18K gold man's ring at a consignment shop. The ring has a row of diamonds across the top (not really important to my question). After the 18K symbol is one letter: Z.

I took it to Zales, but they said not theirs. They did determine the diamonds to be real and noted the color was consistent the 18K mark. Can you ID the manufacturer for me? Thank you.

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The mark may not be a Maker's Mark at all (depending on who made the item) because many manufacturers stamp a finger size (European makers use letters for example) so the 'Z' could be that OR simply a design mark or model identification mark.

Other than that - The Z on its own doesn't mean anything to me as there is no common register for every jeweller's mark because anyone ANYWHERE in the World could have made it.

Hope this helps. Best just to enjoy it. At least you know it is genuine...

Monday, August 07, 2006

Fleur d'lys Hallmark on gold ring

There are more and more Hallmark questions popping up every day and I have been asked about this particular one several times. Maybe you have an item with a similar mark. If so we would be delighted to hear from you with any comments.

QUESTION..?

I just received a ring that has the following markings on the inside of the ring:

a fleur de lis symbol/585/another fleur de lis symbol. I hope you have some insight. My web searches have given me no help! Thanks for your time

ANSWER..!

Ohh - But you've picked a doozy...

The fleur d'lys (fleur de lis) while being a French symbol, was seen during the Huguenot silver makers periods but is not an official French Hallmark (but you'd think so).

It has been used by every man and his dog though, and occasionally has been seen on Austrian items and Czechoslovakian or Hungary or Italy or Denmark and Germany.

Phew!

Even the British Hallmarks have been seen with this mark. American Maker's Marks also show the fleur d'lys in their design.

The 585 is the decimal standard for 14ct gold which would bring me back to Europe. You didn't mention where you live or how or where you got the item - which would help you.

Sorry I can't be more specific - but as I said - it's a doozy...

There is a free UK British Hallmarking course available at Jewelry Antiques.

Saturday, August 05, 2006

Hallmarks on a Gold Bangle

There are more and more questions coming with regard Hallmarks as it seems to be a major confusion for people. Here is a typical example on a Gold Bangle

QUESTION..?

Good morning. I have recently seen a piece (locking bangle) with the marks "pat.jan08" on one side of the hinge and "JM or JMT & CO." on the other side of the hinge. very tiny.

I cannot find anything on the net about these hallmarks.

The piece appears to be gold and has 3 pinkish, red stones set in the top of the bangle. The piece does not seem solid. but I am 99% sure it is gold.

Any information on this piece would be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou for your time and expertise.


ANSWER..!

You didn't say where you live, so I'm going to assume it's the States?

You also didn't say if this was a new item or an estate item, but again, I am going to assume it is at least secondhand if not Vintage.

Hinged Bangles are generally hollow and to increase the 'Apparent' weight - are filled with jewelers wax to make them appear heavy. There's a great article about this on the 20th Century Antique Jewelry Website.

The marks (stamped or engraved?) could simply be as a ID or gift mark for 'Pat' whose Birthday or Anniversary was January 8th?

The other Marks would be the Manufacture or Maker's Marks but the only JM would be for John Moore of Dublin - many years ago in the 18th Century.

So you see why it is important to know how old - AND - where you live or purchased the item. The History is always a great clue when we try to track down an item's past.

The gems are possibly garnets or garnet doublets, but without seeing them and testing..? Maybe pink sapphire? - They are Not just blue.

You need to take the item to a qualified appraiser and have them do a full (expensive) report on it. That's the only way you will know for sure.

Hope this helps.