Jewelry Appraisals

Ocean Jasper and Viluite

2006-10-08T17:31:00.000+10:00

Question: Hi! Can you tell me what you know about Ocean Jasper and Viluite?

I'm trying to write some articles on Wikipedia about those minerals.

Wikipedia already has a tiny article on Viluite: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viluite

Do you have any more info on Viluite and any info on Ocean Jasper?

Thanks!

Answer: G'day and many thanks for your query

However I have never heard of either.

Jasper is generally considered to be a Chalcedony and is one of the Quartz family of gemstones.

They have many TRADE names such as Egyptian Jasper or Blood Jasper etc, but Ocean Jasper means absolutly nothing, and it's name too is most misleading, having nothing to do with the sea?

As for the other gem you mentioned - I have again - No knowledge.

Sorry I can't help.

Continue Hallmarking Questions

2006-08-16T10:42:00.000+10:00

14K B

Question: Hi ,David:

A lady asked another expert a question about what 14K B was. But I think they were not available at this time, so I seek help from you.

I also have the same experience like that lady.

My father in law gave me this silver like necklace which was clearly marked 14K B and not 14k P.

I thought it was 14K brass or something. Could you please tell me what exactly metal it is?

Answer:

G'day and many thanks for your query

Not much to go on for maker's marks but I suspect the item is simply marked with a 'B' for 'Base Metal'

Naturally I can't see, feel, weigh, test ot touch the item, but I have come across this myself over the past 35 years in the business.

It may be 14 Karat gold plated over a Base metal. Try a child's magnet and see if it jumps onto the magnet.

This test is NOT absolute of course, because it could be copper underneath - which is also NON MAGNETIC. But if it does react - it certainly isn't gold.

There are some great gold testing methods explained at the Antique 20th Century Jewelry site or you might like to try the Jewelry Hints Tips and Reviews Blog for poible answers. They are a fairly new site but seem to be getting a bit of a reputation on the web.

Hope this helps.

Historical Jewelry for the Dead

2006-08-16T10:37:00.000+10:00

Question: Dear Mr. Foard,

I'm hoping you can help me. I would like to know where I could go to find info on historical jewelry.

It's weird, but I am looking for information about a ring that I saw. The band was made of some sort of matte black stone, with some black shiny marquis cut stone set in it. The weird thing is that it wasn't set with traditional prongs, it was sort of tied to the band with a gold wire.

I would appreciate if you could point me in the right direction.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

Sincerely,

Answer: G'day and many thanks for your query

Firstly - please don't call me Mr Foard - That was my Father! My name is David ;o)

Many of these black gemstone designed rings are what they call Mourning Rings, and were made to literally commemorate someone who had passed away. They were often seen as black enamel or (as in this case) if you are sure it was made from a matt black stone - Black Onyx or Hematite.

Occasionally these rings also had a special compartment where a lock of hair was placed and this makes me believe (although I haven't seen it) that it could have once had something underneath the gemstone.

Over time the item may have become worn or broken so someone has simply used a wire to hold the gem in place.

There are several good site with information on antique jewelry and you can always do a search on eBay for Mourning Jewelry (try Google or your Favorite search engine).

One of my frequent sites is Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century ( http://www.jewellery-antiques.com/ ) where there is a ton of articles, or you might like to try the Antique Jewelry Fair ( http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com ) as they occasionally have old jewelry like this for sale.

Hope this helps...

Jewelry Appraisal Details

2006-08-09T15:39:00.000+10:00

Unfortunately we get questions from clients where they have been mis-informed in the first place. This is due to a general state of apathy from sellers who once they have taken someone's money - loose sight of the 'Keep the Client Happy' mentality. Shame.

QUESTION..?

Could you give me a ball park appraisal on a pendant. Particulars are:

4.35 oval tanzanite clarity SI3-I2 color h-k
diamonds 10 round & 68 Baguette cut 1.25 CWT
Gold 5.4 grams (white gold).

It has a 14K 20" chain which I have seen priced at about $175-$200 retail.

A buddy of mine is selling this and is asking for $950.00. What do you think?

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

Firstly it is illegal for me to give an appraisal on an item I cannot see, feel, measure or touch. You can - but I can't (read this excellent article on appraisals).

Also you mentioned it is a Tanzanite which you then state is a clarity of SI3-I2 (there is no such thing because this type of clarification is for Diamond and doesn't apply to any other gem PLUS it can't be an SI (slight Inclusion) AND I (imperfect) at the same time?

The color too is all wrong (again only for diamond) being h-k. Which one is it? H - I - J - K (as you see there are four colors here - so it can't be H-K.

I don't know where you got these figures but you need to recheck them.

You can do an appraisal yourself online at the Jewelry Appraisal Center at http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.com for a fairly modest fee ($14.95) but you will need to get the stats correct.

Hope this helps...

18K Yellow Gold Mans Diamond Ring

2006-08-09T15:33:00.000+10:00

Sometimes we get a question from a concerned client, especially when it comes to diamonds, but in this case, we are unable to help. Maybe one of our readers might be able to shed light on this matter, as it would certainly help our 'Pool of Knowledge'.

QUESTION..?

I purchased an 18K gold man's ring at a consignment shop. The ring has a row of diamonds across the top (not really important to my question). After the 18K symbol is one letter: Z.

I took it to Zales, but they said not theirs. They did determine the diamonds to be real and noted the color was consistent the 18K mark. Can you ID the manufacturer for me? Thank you.

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The mark may not be a Maker's Mark at all (depending on who made the item) because many manufacturers stamp a finger size (European makers use letters for example) so the 'Z' could be that OR simply a design mark or model identification mark.

Other than that - The Z on its own doesn't mean anything to me as there is no common register for every jeweller's mark because anyone ANYWHERE in the World could have made it.

Hope this helps. Best just to enjoy it. At least you know it is genuine...

Fleur d'lys Hallmark on gold ring

2006-08-07T10:28:00.000+10:00

There are more and more Hallmark questions popping up every day and I have been asked about this particular one several times. Maybe you have an item with a similar mark. If so we would be delighted to hear from you with any comments.

QUESTION..?

I just received a ring that has the following markings on the inside of the ring:

a fleur de lis symbol/585/another fleur de lis symbol. I hope you have some insight. My web searches have given me no help! Thanks for your time

ANSWER..!

Ohh - But you've picked a doozy...

The fleur d'lys (fleur de lis) while being a French symbol, was seen during the Huguenot silver makers periods but is not an official French Hallmark (but you'd think so).

It has been used by every man and his dog though, and occasionally has been seen on Austrian items and Czechoslovakian or Hungary or Italy or Denmark and Germany.

Phew!

Even the British Hallmarks have been seen with this mark. American Maker's Marks also show the fleur d'lys in their design.

The 585 is the decimal standard for 14ct gold which would bring me back to Europe. You didn't mention where you live or how or where you got the item - which would help you.

Sorry I can't be more specific - but as I said - it's a doozy...

There is a free UK British Hallmarking course available at Jewelry Antiques.

Hallmarks on a Gold Bangle

2006-08-05T11:44:00.000+10:00

There are more and more questions coming with regard Hallmarks as it seems to be a major confusion for people. Here is a typical example on a Gold Bangle

QUESTION..?

Good morning. I have recently seen a piece (locking bangle) with the marks "pat.jan08" on one side of the hinge and "JM or JMT & CO." on the other side of the hinge. very tiny.

I cannot find anything on the net about these hallmarks.

The piece appears to be gold and has 3 pinkish, red stones set in the top of the bangle. The piece does not seem solid. but I am 99% sure it is gold.

Any information on this piece would be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou for your time and expertise.

ANSWER..!

You didn't say where you live, so I'm going to assume it's the States?

You also didn't say if this was a new item or an estate item, but again, I am going to assume it is at least secondhand if not Vintage.

Hinged Bangles are generally hollow and to increase the 'Apparent' weight - are filled with jewelers wax to make them appear heavy. There's a great article about this on the 20th Century Antique Jewelry Website.

The marks (stamped or engraved?) could simply be as a ID or gift mark for 'Pat' whose Birthday or Anniversary was January 8th?

The other Marks would be the Manufacture or Maker's Marks but the only JM would be for John Moore of Dublin - many years ago in the 18th Century.

So you see why it is important to know how old - AND - where you live or purchased the item. The History is always a great clue when we try to track down an item's past.

The gems are possibly garnets or garnet doublets, but without seeing them and testing..? Maybe pink sapphire? - They are Not just blue.

You need to take the item to a qualified appraiser and have them do a full (expensive) report on it. That's the only way you will know for sure.

Hope this helps.

Gold Bracelet Hallmarks

2006-07-31T16:37:00.000+10:00

Jewelry Maker's Marks are the hardest to find as you will see from this recent query I had.

QUESTION..? I HAVE AN OLD LINK STYLE SHAMROCK BRACELET MARKED 14K...C+B...I ASSUME C+B IS A MAKERS MARK BUT I CAN FIND NO INFORMATION ON THIS MAKER ANYWHERE! PLEASE HELP!

ANSWER..! You are correct in saying the 14K (NOT a British Hallmark) is for 14 carat gold and the CB is as you suggested a Makers or design mark.

However; after date letter hallmarks, Maker's Marks are the Hardest to get classified as anyone can make jewelry, and any country can produce jewelry without complying to any register.

This makes the NON-FAMOUS jewelers out there, almost impossible to find.

You might (if you have a lot of time available) like to browse one of my favorite websites at this address: http://home.wxs.nl/~luijt005/hallm.htm or you might like to slip over to Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century at: http://www.jewellery-antiques.com where you can sign up for a bonus Hallmarking 4 part email course.

Even though it's for British Hallmarks, I'm sure you will learn a great deal from it.

Are these Pearls Really Real?

2006-07-29T10:53:00.000+10:00

Has this ever happened to you? I would love to hear from anyone with a similar experience with pearls or any other gemstone or jewelry item. As usual - here's a clients query...

QUESTION..?

I have a strand of pearls that I believe were my grandmothers, possibly bought by my father in Japan. There is a marking on the clasp "KIO". Do you know if this would be a metal marking? Or of significance to the pearls origins?

Thank you for your time.

ANSWER..!

The Mark 'KIO' is probably a Makers Mark or Model design stamp, but unfortunately doesn't mean anything to me.

Not that I want to put a damper on your treasure, but there were many soldiers who during the Korean War bought what they were told were Ruby - These gemstones turned out to be nothing more than polished glass, cut from the red tail lights stolen from their jeeps!

The same thing happened throughout Asia, especially Japan, only this time they were told they were Mikimoto Pearls (which they were not) but simply glass simulations.

You firstly need to take the pearls to your local Jeweler who can at least confirm if they are Natural, Cultured or synthetic. Once you know that, you can decide to proceed with a full appraisal by going to your local gemologist appraiser or you might like to try the Online Service at the Jewelry Appraisal Center.

Hope this helps.

Antique Cameo Gold Hallmarks

2006-07-27T10:32:00.000+10:00

There are always queries about Hallmarks as they seem to be the most complicated issue facing jewelry collectors worldwide. Here is another example from a client...

QUESTION..?

I am trying to find out the age and origin of an old cameo my son found several years ago. It appears to be made out of shell and is of a Roman or Greek godess. The frame it is set in has a t-pin with a c-clasp and a bale. The only markings on it are the letters KIL stamped into the frame. If you can't give me an age perhaps you have some information on the origin from the markings. Thank You for your time. Sincerely...

ANSWER..!

The Roman or Greek Godess design is a classic and very common form of the shell cameo, so that doesn't help much in classifying the item, especially as it only has a t-pin or 'Spring Pin and Hook' clasp.

Better quality items would have a slide lock clasp and WOULD be Hallmarked.

I assume you have had a very close examination around the INSIDE BACK of the frame, but the KIL mark doesn't mean anything special either (a makers mark?).

Also check around the clasp both at the hinge and hook sections as sometimes marks are placed there.

Other than that, there is not a lot I can do to help you. Try your local Antique dealer (or 2) and get as many opinions as possible.

There is a FREE Hallmarking Guide at: http://www.jewellery-antiques.com which is more for British Marks but it might help you understand Hallmarks a little better.

Hope this helps.

What is 925 marking in Jewelry?

2006-07-22T10:47:00.000+10:00

Hallmarks and what they mean, continue to be a problem for many people.

This question recently came in, and I though sharing it would help others...

QUESTION..?

I inherited a necklace with the marking 925 on it. It is a braided tri-color necklace and is stamped "Italy". Knowing it was made in Italy, can you please tell me what the 925 means?

Thank you

ANSWER..!

The 925 (sometimes shown as .925) is the decimal mark for Sterling Silver which is graded out of 1000 (being pure silver).

Don't let the other colors fool you - they are simply colored silver too.

Items like this (braided tri-color) are a standard and very pretty item, in which the Italians make the very best.

Hope this helps. You occasionally see these on eBay or at: http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com/

What Does Milligrain Mean?

2006-07-08T10:42:00.000+10:00

A Recent Question on the term - Milligrain - recently came up, and it made me wonder just what else people need to Know about Jewelry Design and Construction?

Please let me know as we are in the Process of writing an 'Insider's Guide To Jewelry Design' which is fully illustrated with Antique and Estate Jewelry items.

Anyway - here is the Question?

Hi, can you tell me what milligrain means, as in a gold double milligrain ring?

And have you ever heard of ep (I guess it's letters, not a word) used in conjunction with gold?

Is 18k gold the best for a ring? I would love to not be ripped off. Thanks!

Answer!

Milligrain is a design feature Jewelers use to decorate their gold or silver items, and is simply a series of dots or 'grains' (of gold) in a row which forms a line or rim or pattern like this:

::::::::::::::::
And is often seen as a single row or double row especially around the gemstone settings.

And yes - 18ct would be about the best quality for jewelry as it's high in gold (18 parts from 24 carats) without being too soft (pure gold 24ct is really too soft and wears easily).

We sometimes get Milligrain rings at our Antique Jewelry Fair website at http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com/

Hope this helps.

Help with a Gold Cuff Link?

2006-06-30T09:59:00.000+10:00

In my usual capacity of answering questions, here is one worthy of note, not because of any major conclusion but because of the suggestion right at the end...

QUESTION..?

I have one gold cuff link which belonged to my late father. He would have been given it around 1950-1953. The markings on the back are as follows:- The first marking looks like a bird or a bell (not sure) followed by 9 375 (which I believe means 9 ct. then followed by "E". It also has the name PROUD (Probably the name of the Jewellery store).

Are you able to shed any light on the markings and possible year it was made. Many thanks

ANSWER..!

I don't know where you live or where your Father lived when he received the cufflinks in the first place, but the marks are certainly British (or colonies)...

You are correct in the 9 375 means 9ct (the 375 is the decimal code for 9ct gold).

The nearest date letter would have been 1954 for the date 'E' but the assay office would be an 'Anchor' mark for Birmingham.

PROUD is the name of an Australian Jewellery Store, but again I don't know if there is any connection. The Bell or Bird is a puzzle...

Hope this helps, and might I suggest you get your local Jeweler to convert it to a very attractive Pendant.

You can get a FREE Hallmarking Course at 20th Century Jewelry Antiques

Why Not Value it YOURSELF?

2006-06-22T10:21:00.000+10:00

A question came in today and is typical of the Jewelry Appraisal problems most people face.
The solution may be just right for you too - and it's not much of a risk either..!

QUESTION..?

I have a diamond ring marked 10k and it also has a diamond symbol with A141 Do you know the value of a ring such as this and what the markings mean? Thanks so much

ANSWER..!

There are many aspects which go into a Valuation Appraisal, not least the gold weight as well as the quality. 10K answers one side of that question but not how heavy it is etc?

The other marks in the diamond outline is probably a Maker's Stock Number or Mark and adds nothing to the price.

Apart from those considerations we would also need to know how the item was set, in what condition, how old is is, the design or any special features. All these go into the way an appraiser calculates a final price.

However the MOST important part of any jewelry is the gemstone, and this has a whole set of rules on its own.

What Shape - Cut - Color - Clarity - Carat weight - Wear and so on. These are Imposible to know without seeing the item to be valued - UNLESS....

You Value it..!

At the Jewelry Appraisal Center ANYONE can value their own jewelry ONLINE because YOU can see, feel, measure and touch the item being appraised (lots of help menus to get you through).

For one very low fee the software program even writes the Certificate for you, which you can print on your printer at Home. How safe it that?

I'm biased - of course - because I wrote the software, but we have clients (both in the Trade or First Time Users) who get their Jewelry Valued this way.

You can find the Appraisal Center at: http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.com and simply follow the steps.

Hope this helps...

How to make an old watch work

2006-06-11T11:25:00.000+10:00

Elgin watches and what to do with them after their 'Use by Date'

This is a common question and here is my answer....

QUESTION..?

I have recently come across a watch which appears to be pretty old. It is Lady Elgin, 14k stamped on back,1/20-12gf on clasp [which I'm pretty sure means gold filled}, and 2 small diamonds? on each side of the face. The watch is not working, and I am wondering if it is something worth repairing, and how I would go about finding it's worth. Thank you.

ANSWER..!

While watches are not one of my favorites (being a gemologist/valuer and not a watchmaker) I frequetly get these styles of watches over my desk.

The US Elgin company made watches from about 1867 through to the mid 1950's and you are quite correct when you say it is gold filled. The gemstones would not be diamonds, but more likely to be synthetic corundum.

Depending on any sentimental value you put on this item would make your decision as to getting it repaired (see a good local watchmaker and make sure they have worked on old watches like this before).

As a great alternative, we have frequently converted the watch case into a very pretty locket - worth thinking about! You might check the 20th Century Antique Jewellery website.

Generally though, as parts and skilled labor are very hard to come by, I would suggest the latter. Not being gold and not being diamonds means it is simply not worth repairing.

Hope this helps. What do you think?.

How to Clean your Jewelry at Home

2006-06-03T10:58:00.000+10:00

A Client recently wrote to me about sanding a small silver cross pendant which was making deep scratches from sanding. They wanted to know how to get rid of the scratches faster and prevent getting parts of it thiner than other parts?

ANSWER..!

STOP...

Firstly you should NEVER sand gold or silver. Jewelers use a very fine (like wet and dry) paper for the initial smoothing or shaping process to get rid of rough edges.

Once that is done they polish scratches out using a black/grey 'Tripoli' polish on a polishing machine (looks like a bench grinder).

This takes the first level of scatches away.

Then they use a red polish called 'Jewelers Rouge' to give the final finish.

Between each step they would clean in a liquid solution to get rid of the residual polish before moving on to the next step.

Please do not use sandpaper, as this will eventually destroy your item by wearing it thinner.

These two polishes come in a large 'Cake' block, like an old fashioned bar of soap and can be purchased at jewelry supply stores or even some good hardware shops.

But by the time you paid for all these - together with machines and mops etc - it's easier and far less costly to give it to your local jeweler and have them professionally clean it up for you.

There is also an excellent article on cleaning your jewelry at home at the Antique Jewelry website at this address: Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century

This should help.

Legal requirement to Hallmark Jewelry

2006-06-02T09:53:00.000+10:00

Is it a legal requirement to stamp gold jewelry? If it is not legal, is there any reason that it wouldn't be stamped?

A client recently purchased a Geneve watch on-line from Bidz.com. The description was 10k. The watch was not stamped 10K, therefore they returned the watch.

The supposed retail value was $1550. They did not have it appraised.

ANSWER..!

The answer is - it depends...

The main reason I say that is because I don't know what country you are from (I'm assuming the States) where it is legal to stamp precious metal for COMMERCIAL sale.

Not all countries adhere to this.

Also in the States, if you were a small HOBBY craftsman, there is no need for you to stamp your jewelry either.

In most parts of the World, the Hallmark was a way in which the government certified the quality - but also to prove TAX had been paid (the latter being the more important to them).

Finally I might also add that the gold hallmark stamp on many gold watches are INSIDE the back cover of the watchcase. Did you remove the cover for examination?

Most Swiss watches are stamped in this manner.

The bottom line is: If you were not happy and had a full refund - no problems.

Check with other suppliers of quality watches in your area. You don't have to buy of course, but you can pretend you will while asking all sorts of questions which your local supplier should be able to answer.

Only then, when you are happy, make a buying decision.

As often mentioned, there is a FREE Hallmarking course available at the very informative website - Jewelry Antiques of the 20th Century - Why not sign up? (did I mention it was FREE)

Jewelry Markings on Aquamarine Pendant

2006-05-29T09:58:00.000+10:00

A client wrote to ask me the following on an Aquamarine Pendant which I thought was a common enough problem.

She was given a pendant: aquamarine in 18 K gold frame with "TINA" engraved on the back. Front of the aquamarine is uncut.

She is trying to find the designer's full name and other work.

ANSWER..!

The name 'TINA' doesn't mean anything to me but you didn't say whether it was STAMPED Tina or ENGRAVED as Tina?

If it was engraved it may simply be the name of the person who was given the pendant as a gift. To 'TINA' with love etc...

If it was stamped - there doesn't appear to be any Manufacture or Makers Mark to link it to...

Finally, it may also have been the work of a Jewelers' Apprentice, (yes they have girls too) who made the item and marked it with her own name. Craft schools also teach jewelry making around the world, so it may have come from that also.

Personally - if it were engraved and not stamped, I would go with the first option. It was the name of the person to who the item was first given.

For more on Hallmarks in General go to 20th Century Jewelry Antiques and sign up for their FREE course on hallmarking. Well worth the effort...

Platinum Quality Marking

2006-05-27T12:36:00.000+10:00

I have a question about the FTC guidelines on platinum quality marking for a good friend of mine. Her husband's wedding band in stamped with 800Pt. I was reading on quality quidelines on the FTC website.

Here it states that platinum must be at least 850 ppt platinum and apparently any less is to be marked with it's pgm as well. This is the point I am unsure of- I don't know.

Also the people they purchased thier wedding rings from said that white gold was stronger and more durable than platinum for her ring- I thought the opposite was true, and that platinum is the best choice for setting diamonds in long term items like wedding rings, etc.

ANSWER..!

Platinum jewelry has taken a little change over the past few years, especially since the price has risen along with Gold.

In order for the industry to keep prices competitive, they have started to classify Platinum Alloys with the 800pt or 850pt marks etc - which is quite acceptable as they are NOT using the word 'PLATINUM' (which indicates the pure metal).

While that term (800pt) may be a little misleading, especially if it were not brought to the purchasers attention, it is never-the-less quite acceptable.

You also have to remember that not all jewelry is made in the States and many items made in Europe or overseas may not have such stringent rules and regulations.

Personally, if your friend knew the item was 800 grade alloy and was happy with the price - I'd be happy with that.

Regarding Platinum verses White Gold - White Gold is HARDER because of the way it is mixed with other metals. Traditionally Platinum is used for diamonds because it doesn't throw any colour into the gemstone. Diamonds are graded by their LACK OF COLOR so the less reflection from the ring - the better. Platinum wins for me, but it's still a personal thing.

Hope this helps.

Client asks - What is 9k on gold?

2006-05-19T09:47:00.000+10:00

Please keep your questions coming so we can all share in the information.

QUESTION..?

I have a gold necklace that has been passed down to me and I am trying to find out what it is made of, there are no hallmarks on it but the lobster clasp has a tiny 9k stamped on to it.

Is it real gold? Can you help. Kind Regards

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The 9K is the American - Asian - International Hallmark for 9 carat gold, but because it has a 'K' it shows it was NOT made in Great Britain or any of the British Colonies (such as Australia).

As I don't know where you live, I'm going to assume you are in the States, so this is normal.

In some countries they use 'K' for Karat (or carat) to differentiate between gold quality and gemstone weight - which confusingly is also a measurement in carats.

So 'K' or 'Kt' is for Karat Gold and 'c' or 'ct' is also for carat gold - while 'carats' is a weight measurment for gems.

Hope all this helps.

You might like to take it to your local 'FRIENDLY' jeweler who will check it for you at no charge, if they are 'Good' Jewelers. If they want to charge - Find another one!

Italian Etruscan Pendant

2006-05-17T09:42:00.000+10:00

In keeping with our Questions and Answer format - here is the most recent question.

QUESTION?

Have just purchased a pendant which has a 5ct Onyx faceted jewel set into a square gold pendant of approx 3cm x 3cm with a "roman" pattern around the stone. It was advertised as gold 14k - the stamping on the rear of the pendant has 14Kt with the word ITALY written below that and beneath the small square raised area with the stamp is a marking similar to << >> underlined.

It is very light has a tiny "airhole" in the top of the square and is obviously hollow. As it was advertised made in Italy I was expecting something more substantial in weight - does this sound like an authentic item - with this type of marking/stamping on rear i.e. the bail has no markings at all.

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

Many items of jewelry made over the past few centuries have been made hollow to save weight (and reduce cost) so that is not a problem. In fact the Victorians were renown for filling hollow items with jeweller's wax to make them appear heavier.

Thankfully THAT practice has stopped..!

In Italy there is no restrictions to Hallmarking, so 14Kt and the word 'ITALY' is acceptable. Just because it doesn't have any markings on the bail doesn't make it suspect.

I assume you bought the item from a reputable company with some form of refund if you were not 100% delighted with your purchase? If you are not happy, then this may be the way to go. On the other hand, if you feel you paid a fair price for it - keep it and enjoy it.

Like most things in this world - you end up getting what you paid for.

Ring with markings not known

2006-05-14T11:21:00.000+10:00

Another Question came through today which needs some thoughts?

QUESTION..?

I found a ring that looks like gold and has some gems on it. There are some stones that look like sapphires and some stones that look like diamonds.

The ring it has the following markings: K or a other letter or symbol that looks like that and then 25 and on the other side of the ring it has HC, also this is not clear. Is this real gold ?

MY ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

However there is not a gemologist or valuer in the world who could give you a straight 'Yes or No' from just the description.

I would suggest you take it to your local friendly jeweler who should (even for a small fee) answer your question by testing it.

The Hallmarks you have described simply tell me that it is NOT of British Manufacture as
the Hallmarks sound just like Makers Marks.

You can find more about Hallmarks at this site:
Jewelry Antiques of the 20th Century where they have a free hallmarking course available which might help.

This is a great resource and one which I recommend - because I wrote it!

Have a Great Mother's Day everyone.

Unfortunately - a typical problem

2006-05-13T09:49:00.000+10:00

I recently received an email from someone with an appraisal problem which I thought was well worth answering here, so I have added both the question, together with my answer in the hope that it helps.

QUESTION....?

I am an event concierge at the JW Marriott hotel. One of the meetings that I was caring for was a group called [BLANKED OUT]. Their website is [BLANKED OUT].

I bought a tennis bracelet for my mother from this guy there and he claimed it was a 14k gold, Class A man made sapphire and man made diamond bracelet. I don't know what I was thinking when I bought the bracelet without doing some research but I bought it for 211 dollars.

When I got the piece home, I looked it over and it is stamped 925 which is silver instead of gold. I was concerned that the piece was gold plated so I called the number listed on the website and spoke with this lady who told me that the bracelet was indeed 14k gold but it was reinforced with a silver wire thus the .925 stamp.

She said it was not considered goldplated b/c it was thick gold mostly solid gold over a reinforcing wire of silver. Does that make sense?
The piece is also stamped CZC. What does that mean?

I am concerned that I was taken for a fool and bought something that is nowhere near its worth. Can you tell me if I goofed up or not. The lady that I spoke with assured me that it would not tarnish and that it was not plated so it wouldn't peel or chip.

She said it had a lifetime warranty as long as I didn't wash my hands in acid. Im a bit worried. How much would you suspect my 50 stone (25 man made sapphire 25 man made diamond), 14k gold stamped 925 czc to be worth?

ANSWER....!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The first thing I would be doing is check to see if there was any form of guarantee or money back available for this item and get a refund - if possible.

Now don't get me wrong here. The item is priced quite fair for what you paid and is comparable with similar items in retail stores - but you certainly have purchased a silver bracelet plated with 14k gold and set with all synthetic gems.

Man made Sapphires are STILL real sapphires except they are made by man instead of coming out of the ground. In many cases they are almost too perfect because they still have the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the natural gem - so they are real - just not natural.

Sapphires like this are fairly cheap and Cubic Zirconias (CZ) are even cheaper. All in all you received what you paid for, so you are not a fool.

But if you are not happy - get a refund.

Hope this helps.

MORAL OF STORY - Buyer Beware....

Testing sterling silver

2006-05-08T18:51:00.000+10:00

Recently had a question which I though would be worth sharing:

Hi, I have a question on how to test for silver. I don't know if after rubbing on touchstone and appling acid, does the mark turn a special color?

This was my reply which may help those with a similar problem....

Firstly it is important to realise that you do NOT use a touchstone for Silver.
You should test the article itself.

Lightly scratch or scuff a small spot which is not seen (like underneath a silver teapot or inside a ring band etc) and apply Nitric Acid to the spot.

If it turns a cloudy grey color it is Sterling Silver. If it turns black it is Coin Silver. What you don't want is for it to turn green which indicates it is plated.

You must ensure you make the scratch deep enough to go beneath any plating though, else it won't react as it has to reach any base metal underneath. This can be a little unsightly so make sure it is in an unobtrusive area.

Be very careful with Nitric Acid too...

Hope this helps. I am sure there is some useful information on the Antique Jewery of the 20th Century website.

Easter and I'm all Egged Out..!

2006-04-19T18:24:00.000+10:00

Groucho Marx once said - "Thanks for Coming - Thanks for Going" and I have to say I feel exactly the same about Easter.

Sure it's full of fun and the Chocolate is Great - But there's a downside....

People get presents for Easter and Jewelry is part of that. Do you know how hard it is to handle all the Valuation Appraisals around the family at this time? Horrendous....

Great Aunts we haven't seen since Christmas suddenly appear with "Look what your Uncle Henry bought me this year..." and then lower their voices to a whisper..." What do you think it's Worth?"

I spend the better part of the long weekend Vacation measuring, weighing, pressing my eyeglass to the cheek bone, deciphering Hallmarks and writing long lists of features and formulas and calculations onto scraps of paper all over my kitchen.

Don't these people know they can go ONLINE and do a Jewelry Appraisal in less than 15 minutes themselves? It's safe - it's easy - it even writes the description for you, and all for less than the price of an average chocolate egg!

"Thanks for coming.... Thanks for Going... See you for Mother's Day!"