Thursday, July 27, 2006

Antique Cameo Gold Hallmarks

There are always queries about Hallmarks as they seem to be the most complicated issue facing jewelry collectors worldwide. Here is another example from a client...

QUESTION..?

I am trying to find out the age and origin of an old cameo my son found several years ago. It appears to be made out of shell and is of a Roman or Greek godess. The frame it is set in has a t-pin with a c-clasp and a bale. The only markings on it are the letters KIL stamped into the frame. If you can't give me an age perhaps you have some information on the origin from the markings. Thank You for your time. Sincerely...

ANSWER..!

The Roman or Greek Godess design is a classic and very common form of the shell cameo, so that doesn't help much in classifying the item, especially as it only has a t-pin or 'Spring Pin and Hook' clasp.

Better quality items would have a slide lock clasp and WOULD be Hallmarked.

I assume you have had a very close examination around the INSIDE BACK of the frame, but the KIL mark doesn't mean anything special either (a makers mark?).

Also check around the clasp both at the hinge and hook sections as sometimes marks are placed there.

Other than that, there is not a lot I can do to help you. Try your local Antique dealer (or 2) and get as many opinions as possible.

There is a FREE Hallmarking Guide at: http://www.jewellery-antiques.com which is more for British Marks but it might help you understand Hallmarks a little better.

Hope this helps.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

What is 925 marking in Jewelry?

Hallmarks and what they mean, continue to be a problem for many people.

This question recently came in, and I though sharing it would help others...

QUESTION..?

I inherited a necklace with the marking 925 on it. It is a braided tri-color necklace and is stamped "Italy". Knowing it was made in Italy, can you please tell me what the 925 means?

Thank you

ANSWER..!

The 925 (sometimes shown as .925) is the decimal mark for Sterling Silver which is graded out of 1000 (being pure silver).

Don't let the other colors fool you - they are simply colored silver too.

Items like this (braided tri-color) are a standard and very pretty item, in which the Italians make the very best.

Hope this helps. You occasionally see these on eBay or at: http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com/

Saturday, July 08, 2006

What Does Milligrain Mean?

A Recent Question on the term - Milligrain - recently came up, and it made me wonder just what else people need to Know about Jewelry Design and Construction?

Please let me know as we are in the Process of writing an 'Insider's Guide To Jewelry Design' which is fully illustrated with Antique and Estate Jewelry items.

Anyway - here is the Question?

Hi, can you tell me what milligrain means, as in a gold double milligrain ring?

And have you ever heard of ep (I guess it's letters, not a word) used in conjunction with gold?

Is 18k gold the best for a ring? I would love to not be ripped off. Thanks!

Answer!

Milligrain is a design feature Jewelers use to decorate their gold or silver items, and is simply a series of dots or 'grains' (of gold) in a row which forms a line or rim or pattern like this:

::::::::::::::::
And is often seen as a single row or double row especially around the gemstone settings.

And yes - 18ct would be about the best quality for jewelry as it's high in gold (18 parts from 24 carats) without being too soft (pure gold 24ct is really too soft and wears easily).

We sometimes get Milligrain rings at our Antique Jewelry Fair website at http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com/

Hope this helps.

Friday, June 30, 2006

Help with a Gold Cuff Link?

In my usual capacity of answering questions, here is one worthy of note, not because of any major conclusion but because of the suggestion right at the end...

QUESTION..?

I have one gold cuff link which belonged to my late father. He would have been given it around 1950-1953. The markings on the back are as follows:- The first marking looks like a bird or a bell (not sure) followed by 9 375 (which I believe means 9 ct. then followed by "E". It also has the name PROUD (Probably the name of the Jewellery store).

Are you able to shed any light on the markings and possible year it was made. Many thanks

ANSWER..!

I don't know where you live or where your Father lived when he received the cufflinks in the first place, but the marks are certainly British (or colonies)...

You are correct in the 9 375 means 9ct (the 375 is the decimal code for 9ct gold).

The nearest date letter would have been 1954 for the date 'E' but the assay office would be an 'Anchor' mark for Birmingham.

PROUD is the name of an Australian Jewellery Store, but again I don't know if there is any connection. The Bell or Bird is a puzzle...

Hope this helps, and might I suggest you get your local Jeweler to convert it to a very attractive Pendant.

You can get a FREE Hallmarking Course at 20th Century Jewelry Antiques

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Why Not Value it YOURSELF?

A question came in today and is typical of the Jewelry Appraisal problems most people face.
The solution may be just right for you too - and it's not much of a risk either..!

QUESTION..?

I have a diamond ring marked 10k and it also has a diamond symbol with A141 Do you know the value of a ring such as this and what the markings mean? Thanks so much

ANSWER..!

There are many aspects which go into a Valuation Appraisal, not least the gold weight as well as the quality. 10K answers one side of that question but not how heavy it is etc?

The other marks in the diamond outline is probably a Maker's Stock Number or Mark and adds nothing to the price.

Apart from those considerations we would also need to know how the item was set, in what condition, how old is is, the design or any special features. All these go into the way an appraiser calculates a final price.

However the MOST important part of any jewelry is the gemstone, and this has a whole set of rules on its own.

What Shape - Cut - Color - Clarity - Carat weight - Wear and so on. These are Imposible to know without seeing the item to be valued - UNLESS....

You Value it..!

At the Jewelry Appraisal Center ANYONE can value their own jewelry ONLINE because YOU can see, feel, measure and touch the item being appraised (lots of help menus to get you through).

For one very low fee the software program even writes the Certificate for you, which you can print on your printer at Home. How safe it that?

I'm biased - of course - because I wrote the software, but we have clients (both in the Trade or First Time Users) who get their Jewelry Valued this way.

You can find the Appraisal Center at: http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.com and simply follow the steps.

Hope this helps...

Sunday, June 11, 2006

How to make an old watch work

Elgin watches and what to do with them after their 'Use by Date'

This is a common question and here is my answer....

QUESTION..?

I have recently come across a watch which appears to be pretty old. It is Lady Elgin, 14k stamped on back,1/20-12gf on clasp [which I'm pretty sure means gold filled}, and 2 small diamonds? on each side of the face. The watch is not working, and I am wondering if it is something worth repairing, and how I would go about finding it's worth. Thank you.

ANSWER..!

While watches are not one of my favorites (being a gemologist/valuer and not a watchmaker) I frequetly get these styles of watches over my desk.

The US Elgin company made watches from about 1867 through to the mid 1950's and you are quite correct when you say it is gold filled. The gemstones would not be diamonds, but more likely to be synthetic corundum.

Depending on any sentimental value you put on this item would make your decision as to getting it repaired (see a good local watchmaker and make sure they have worked on old watches like this before).

As a great alternative, we have frequently converted the watch case into a very pretty locket - worth thinking about! You might check the 20th Century Antique Jewellery website.

Generally though, as parts and skilled labor are very hard to come by, I would suggest the latter. Not being gold and not being diamonds means it is simply not worth repairing.

Hope this helps. What do you think?.

Saturday, June 03, 2006

How to Clean your Jewelry at Home

A Client recently wrote to me about sanding a small silver cross pendant which was making deep scratches from sanding. They wanted to know how to get rid of the scratches faster and prevent getting parts of it thiner than other parts?

ANSWER..!

STOP...

Firstly you should NEVER sand gold or silver. Jewelers use a very fine (like wet and dry) paper for the initial smoothing or shaping process to get rid of rough edges.

Once that is done they polish scratches out using a black/grey 'Tripoli' polish on a polishing machine (looks like a bench grinder).

This takes the first level of scatches away.

Then they use a red polish called 'Jewelers Rouge' to give the final finish.

Between each step they would clean in a liquid solution to get rid of the residual polish before moving on to the next step.

Please do not use sandpaper, as this will eventually destroy your item by wearing it thinner.

These two polishes come in a large 'Cake' block, like an old fashioned bar of soap and can be purchased at jewelry supply stores or even some good hardware shops.

But by the time you paid for all these - together with machines and mops etc - it's easier and far less costly to give it to your local jeweler and have them professionally clean it up for you.

There is also an excellent article on cleaning your jewelry at home at the Antique Jewelry website at this address: Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century

This should help.

Friday, June 02, 2006

Legal requirement to Hallmark Jewelry

Is it a legal requirement to stamp gold jewelry? If it is not legal, is there any reason that it wouldn't be stamped?

A client recently purchased a Geneve watch on-line from Bidz.com. The description was 10k. The watch was not stamped 10K, therefore they returned the watch.

The supposed retail value was $1550. They did not have it appraised.

ANSWER..!

The answer is - it depends...

The main reason I say that is because I don't know what country you are from (I'm assuming the States) where it is legal to stamp precious metal for COMMERCIAL sale.

Not all countries adhere to this.

Also in the States, if you were a small HOBBY craftsman, there is no need for you to stamp your jewelry either.

In most parts of the World, the Hallmark was a way in which the government certified the quality - but also to prove TAX had been paid (the latter being the more important to them).

Finally I might also add that the gold hallmark stamp on many gold watches are INSIDE the back cover of the watchcase. Did you remove the cover for examination?

Most Swiss watches are stamped in this manner.

The bottom line is: If you were not happy and had a full refund - no problems.

Check with other suppliers of quality watches in your area. You don't have to buy of course, but you can pretend you will while asking all sorts of questions which your local supplier should be able to answer.

Only then, when you are happy, make a buying decision.

As often mentioned, there is a FREE Hallmarking course available at the very informative website - Jewelry Antiques of the 20th Century - Why not sign up? (did I mention it was FREE)

Monday, May 29, 2006

Jewelry Markings on Aquamarine Pendant

A client wrote to ask me the following on an Aquamarine Pendant which I thought was a common enough problem.

She was given a pendant: aquamarine in 18 K gold frame with "TINA" engraved on the back. Front of the aquamarine is uncut.

She is trying to find the designer's full name and other work.



ANSWER..!

The name 'TINA' doesn't mean anything to me but you didn't say whether it was STAMPED Tina or ENGRAVED as Tina?

If it was engraved it may simply be the name of the person who was given the pendant as a gift. To 'TINA' with love etc...

If it was stamped - there doesn't appear to be any Manufacture or Makers Mark to link it to...

Finally, it may also have been the work of a Jewelers' Apprentice, (yes they have girls too) who made the item and marked it with her own name. Craft schools also teach jewelry making around the world, so it may have come from that also.

Personally - if it were engraved and not stamped, I would go with the first option. It was the name of the person to who the item was first given.

For more on Hallmarks in General go to 20th Century Jewelry Antiques and sign up for their FREE course on hallmarking. Well worth the effort...

Saturday, May 27, 2006

Platinum Quality Marking

I have a question about the FTC guidelines on platinum quality marking for a good friend of mine. Her husband's wedding band in stamped with 800Pt. I was reading on quality quidelines on the FTC website.

Here it states that platinum must be at least 850 ppt platinum and apparently any less is to be marked with it's pgm as well. This is the point I am unsure of- I don't know.

Also the people they purchased thier wedding rings from said that white gold was stronger and more durable than platinum for her ring- I thought the opposite was true, and that platinum is the best choice for setting diamonds in long term items like wedding rings, etc.

ANSWER..!

Platinum jewelry has taken a little change over the past few years, especially since the price has risen along with Gold.

In order for the industry to keep prices competitive, they have started to classify Platinum Alloys with the 800pt or 850pt marks etc - which is quite acceptable as they are NOT using the word 'PLATINUM' (which indicates the pure metal).

While that term (800pt) may be a little misleading, especially if it were not brought to the purchasers attention, it is never-the-less quite acceptable.

You also have to remember that not all jewelry is made in the States and many items made in Europe or overseas may not have such stringent rules and regulations.

Personally, if your friend knew the item was 800 grade alloy and was happy with the price - I'd be happy with that.

Regarding Platinum verses White Gold - White Gold is HARDER because of the way it is mixed with other metals. Traditionally Platinum is used for diamonds because it doesn't throw any colour into the gemstone. Diamonds are graded by their LACK OF COLOR so the less reflection from the ring - the better. Platinum wins for me, but it's still a personal thing.

Hope this helps.

Friday, May 19, 2006

Client asks - What is 9k on gold?

Please keep your questions coming so we can all share in the information.

QUESTION..?

I have a gold necklace that has been passed down to me and I am trying to find out what it is made of, there are no hallmarks on it but the lobster clasp has a tiny 9k stamped on to it.

Is it real gold? Can you help. Kind Regards

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The 9K is the American - Asian - International Hallmark for 9 carat gold, but because it has a 'K' it shows it was NOT made in Great Britain or any of the British Colonies (such as Australia).

As I don't know where you live, I'm going to assume you are in the States, so this is normal.

In some countries they use 'K' for Karat (or carat) to differentiate between gold quality and gemstone weight - which confusingly is also a measurement in carats.

So 'K' or 'Kt' is for Karat Gold and 'c' or 'ct' is also for carat gold - while 'carats' is a weight measurment for gems.

Hope all this helps.

You might like to take it to your local 'FRIENDLY' jeweler who will check it for you at no charge, if they are 'Good' Jewelers. If they want to charge - Find another one!

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Italian Etruscan Pendant

In keeping with our Questions and Answer format - here is the most recent question.

QUESTION?

Have just purchased a pendant which has a 5ct Onyx faceted jewel set into a square gold pendant of approx 3cm x 3cm with a "roman" pattern around the stone. It was advertised as gold 14k - the stamping on the rear of the pendant has 14Kt with the word ITALY written below that and beneath the small square raised area with the stamp is a marking similar to << >> underlined.

It is very light has a tiny "airhole" in the top of the square and is obviously hollow. As it was advertised made in Italy I was expecting something more substantial in weight - does this sound like an authentic item - with this type of marking/stamping on rear i.e. the bail has no markings at all.


ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

Many items of jewelry made over the past few centuries have been made hollow to save weight (and reduce cost) so that is not a problem. In fact the Victorians were renown for filling hollow items with jeweller's wax to make them appear heavier.

Thankfully THAT practice has stopped..!

In Italy there is no restrictions to Hallmarking, so 14Kt and the word 'ITALY' is acceptable. Just because it doesn't have any markings on the bail doesn't make it suspect.

I assume you bought the item from a reputable company with some form of refund if you were not 100% delighted with your purchase? If you are not happy, then this may be the way to go. On the other hand, if you feel you paid a fair price for it - keep it and enjoy it.

Like most things in this world - you end up getting what you paid for.

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Ring with markings not known

Another Question came through today which needs some thoughts?

QUESTION..?

I found a ring that looks like gold and has some gems on it. There are some stones that look like sapphires and some stones that look like diamonds.

The ring it has the following markings: K or a other letter or symbol that looks like that and then 25 and on the other side of the ring it has HC, also this is not clear. Is this real gold ?

MY ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

However there is not a gemologist or valuer in the world who could give you a straight 'Yes or No' from just the description.

I would suggest you take it to your local friendly jeweler who should (even for a small fee) answer your question by testing it.

The Hallmarks you have described simply tell me that it is NOT of British Manufacture as
the Hallmarks sound just like Makers Marks.

You can find more about Hallmarks at this site:
Jewelry Antiques of the 20th Century where they have a free hallmarking course available which might help.

This is a great resource and one which I recommend - because I wrote it!

Have a Great Mother's Day everyone.

Saturday, May 13, 2006

Unfortunately - a typical problem

I recently received an email from someone with an appraisal problem which I thought was well worth answering here, so I have added both the question, together with my answer in the hope that it helps.

QUESTION....?

I am an event concierge at the JW Marriott hotel. One of the meetings that I was caring for was a group called [BLANKED OUT]. Their website is [BLANKED OUT].

I bought a tennis bracelet for my mother from this guy there and he claimed it was a 14k gold, Class A man made sapphire and man made diamond bracelet. I don't know what I was thinking when I bought the bracelet without doing some research but I bought it for 211 dollars.

When I got the piece home, I looked it over and it is stamped 925 which is silver instead of gold. I was concerned that the piece was gold plated so I called the number listed on the website and spoke with this lady who told me that the bracelet was indeed 14k gold but it was reinforced with a silver wire thus the .925 stamp.

She said it was not considered goldplated b/c it was thick gold mostly solid gold over a reinforcing wire of silver. Does that make sense?
The piece is also stamped CZC. What does that mean?

I am concerned that I was taken for a fool and bought something that is nowhere near its worth. Can you tell me if I goofed up or not. The lady that I spoke with assured me that it would not tarnish and that it was not plated so it wouldn't peel or chip.

She said it had a lifetime warranty as long as I didn't wash my hands in acid. Im a bit worried. How much would you suspect my 50 stone (25 man made sapphire 25 man made diamond), 14k gold stamped 925 czc to be worth?


ANSWER....!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The first thing I would be doing is check to see if there was any form of guarantee or money back available for this item and get a refund - if possible.

Now don't get me wrong here. The item is priced quite fair for what you paid and is comparable with similar items in retail stores - but you certainly have purchased a silver bracelet plated with 14k gold and set with all synthetic gems.

Man made Sapphires are STILL real sapphires except they are made by man instead of coming out of the ground. In many cases they are almost too perfect because they still have the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the natural gem - so they are real - just not natural.

Sapphires like this are fairly cheap and Cubic Zirconias (CZ) are even cheaper. All in all you received what you paid for, so you are not a fool.

But if you are not happy - get a refund.

Hope this helps.

MORAL OF STORY - Buyer Beware....

Monday, May 08, 2006

Testing sterling silver

Recently had a question which I though would be worth sharing:

Hi, I have a question on how to test for silver. I don't know if after rubbing on touchstone and appling acid, does the mark turn a special color?

This was my reply which may help those with a similar problem....

Firstly it is important to realise that you do NOT use a touchstone for Silver.
You should test the article itself.

Lightly scratch or scuff a small spot which is not seen (like underneath a silver teapot or inside a ring band etc) and apply Nitric Acid to the spot.

If it turns a cloudy grey color it is Sterling Silver. If it turns black it is Coin Silver. What you don't want is for it to turn green which indicates it is plated.

You must ensure you make the scratch deep enough to go beneath any plating though, else it won't react as it has to reach any base metal underneath. This can be a little unsightly so make sure it is in an unobtrusive area.

Be very careful with Nitric Acid too...

Hope this helps. I am sure there is some useful information on the Antique Jewery of the 20th Century website.

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Easter and I'm all Egged Out..!

Groucho Marx once said - "Thanks for Coming - Thanks for Going" and I have to say I feel exactly the same about Easter.

Sure it's full of fun and the Chocolate is Great - But there's a downside....

People get presents for Easter and Jewelry is part of that. Do you know how hard it is to handle all the Valuation Appraisals around the family at this time? Horrendous....

Great Aunts we haven't seen since Christmas suddenly appear with "Look what your Uncle Henry bought me this year..." and then lower their voices to a whisper..." What do you think it's Worth?"

I spend the better part of the long weekend Vacation measuring, weighing, pressing my eyeglass to the cheek bone, deciphering Hallmarks and writing long lists of features and formulas and calculations onto scraps of paper all over my kitchen.

Don't these people know they can go ONLINE and do a Jewelry Appraisal in less than 15 minutes themselves? It's safe - it's easy - it even writes the description for you, and all for less than the price of an average chocolate egg!

"Thanks for coming.... Thanks for Going... See you for Mother's Day!"

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Jewelry Valuation Appraisal Problem

I recently received an email from a client with regard valuing an Antique 18ct Watch Chain, and it made me realize that people don't understand the difference between NEW jewelry and OLD jewelry when it comes to an Appraisal.

At the Valuations Online Database there is a built in formula to calculate these differences, but the basics remain that ALL Valuation Appraisals stem from a single MASTER price based on the REPLACEMENT FOR INSURANCE price.

An Antique, Secondhand, Vintage or Estate item is simply a proportion of this original MASTER valuation. No more - no less.

A visit to the only online appraisal system in the world not only explains this difference, but allows anyone to do their own Valuation Appraisal and Print their Certificate right there on the Desktop at Home or Work.

Can't be any easier than that...

Saturday, April 08, 2006

You say Jewellery - I say Jewelry

One of the major problems with running a company for International clients is the wording of the English language.

Apart from the two examples in the title of this post, there is also the problems with the words 'JEWELRY APPRAISALS' and 'JEWELLERY VALUATION' which basically mean the same thing - but to different parts of the world.

Another classic for the Jewelry Trade is 'CARAT' vs 'KARAT' and the mixup up between the quality of gold and the weight of gemstones.

Phew! Why do we bother?

Well the good news is at the Valuation Appraisal Center the online software program which anyone can use, takes all these things into account depending on which country you are from, and then prints out a Certificate in your currency (choice of seven) with all this little spellings taken into account. How cool is that?

Wednesday, April 05, 2006

New Update for Jewelry Trade

For the past four hectic days we have been updating the Jewelry Appraisal Center, and in particular, the Jewelry Trade Business section.

Power Users now have more functionality available and the Bulk Purchase price of Valuation Certificates have also been incorporated into the Sales - Order - Purchase process.

If yesterday was anything to go by - it's going to be a busy time for Jewelry Appraisals over the coming months.

If you haven't tried it yet, remember the Jewelry Industry has an opportunity to a FREE complimentary Trial. How can you loose?

Saturday, April 01, 2006

New Month - New Jewelry Goals

My Grandfather was born on the 1st April 1885 (so he'd be quite old if her were alive today).
But in a way, maybe he still is...

He was always the 'Action' type in that he would be doing SOMETHING.

So I take that generic trait and do the same on the Internet.

We have been working steadily on bringing a new interface for the Jewelry Appraisal Center
which is 99.9 % complete, plus we have been working on access to the Valuation Manager Interface for the Casual Users of the program. They will find a HUGE difference on handling their jewelry appraisals or renewing the Certificates.

Stay tuned - it should be online in just a couple of days - And that's NO April Fool...!