Jewelry Markings on Aquamarine Pendant

A client wrote to ask me the following on an Aquamarine Pendant which I thought was a common enough problem.

She was given a pendant: aquamarine in 18 K gold frame with "TINA" engraved on the back. Front of the aquamarine is uncut.

She is trying to find the designer's full name and other work.



ANSWER..!

The name 'TINA' doesn't mean anything to me but you didn't say whether it was STAMPED Tina or ENGRAVED as Tina?

If it was engraved it may simply be the name of the person who was given the pendant as a gift. To 'TINA' with love etc...

If it was stamped - there doesn't appear to be any Manufacture or Makers Mark to link it to...

Finally, it may also have been the work of a Jewelers' Apprentice, (yes they have girls too) who made the item and marked it with her own name. Craft schools also teach jewelry making around the world, so it may have come from that also.

Personally - if it were engraved and not stamped, I would go with the first option. It was the name of the person to who the item was first given.

For more on Hallmarks in General go to 20th Century Jewelry Antiques and sign up for their FREE course on hallmarking. Well worth the effort...

Platinum Quality Marking

I have a question about the FTC guidelines on platinum quality marking for a good friend of mine. Her husband's wedding band in stamped with 800Pt. I was reading on quality quidelines on the FTC website.

Here it states that platinum must be at least 850 ppt platinum and apparently any less is to be marked with it's pgm as well. This is the point I am unsure of- I don't know.

Also the people they purchased thier wedding rings from said that white gold was stronger and more durable than platinum for her ring- I thought the opposite was true, and that platinum is the best choice for setting diamonds in long term items like wedding rings, etc.

ANSWER..!

Platinum jewelry has taken a little change over the past few years, especially since the price has risen along with Gold.

In order for the industry to keep prices competitive, they have started to classify Platinum Alloys with the 800pt or 850pt marks etc - which is quite acceptable as they are NOT using the word 'PLATINUM' (which indicates the pure metal).

While that term (800pt) may be a little misleading, especially if it were not brought to the purchasers attention, it is never-the-less quite acceptable.

You also have to remember that not all jewelry is made in the States and many items made in Europe or overseas may not have such stringent rules and regulations.

Personally, if your friend knew the item was 800 grade alloy and was happy with the price - I'd be happy with that.

Regarding Platinum verses White Gold - White Gold is HARDER because of the way it is mixed with other metals. Traditionally Platinum is used for diamonds because it doesn't throw any colour into the gemstone. Diamonds are graded by their LACK OF COLOR so the less reflection from the ring - the better. Platinum wins for me, but it's still a personal thing.

Hope this helps.

Client asks - What is 9k on gold?

Please keep your questions coming so we can all share in the information.

QUESTION..?

I have a gold necklace that has been passed down to me and I am trying to find out what it is made of, there are no hallmarks on it but the lobster clasp has a tiny 9k stamped on to it.

Is it real gold? Can you help. Kind Regards

ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The 9K is the American - Asian - International Hallmark for 9 carat gold, but because it has a 'K' it shows it was NOT made in Great Britain or any of the British Colonies (such as Australia).

As I don't know where you live, I'm going to assume you are in the States, so this is normal.

In some countries they use 'K' for Karat (or carat) to differentiate between gold quality and gemstone weight - which confusingly is also a measurement in carats.

So 'K' or 'Kt' is for Karat Gold and 'c' or 'ct' is also for carat gold - while 'carats' is a weight measurment for gems.

Hope all this helps.

You might like to take it to your local 'FRIENDLY' jeweler who will check it for you at no charge, if they are 'Good' Jewelers. If they want to charge - Find another one!

Italian Etruscan Pendant

In keeping with our Questions and Answer format - here is the most recent question.

QUESTION?

Have just purchased a pendant which has a 5ct Onyx faceted jewel set into a square gold pendant of approx 3cm x 3cm with a "roman" pattern around the stone. It was advertised as gold 14k - the stamping on the rear of the pendant has 14Kt with the word ITALY written below that and beneath the small square raised area with the stamp is a marking similar to << >> underlined.

It is very light has a tiny "airhole" in the top of the square and is obviously hollow. As it was advertised made in Italy I was expecting something more substantial in weight - does this sound like an authentic item - with this type of marking/stamping on rear i.e. the bail has no markings at all.


ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

Many items of jewelry made over the past few centuries have been made hollow to save weight (and reduce cost) so that is not a problem. In fact the Victorians were renown for filling hollow items with jeweller's wax to make them appear heavier.

Thankfully THAT practice has stopped..!

In Italy there is no restrictions to Hallmarking, so 14Kt and the word 'ITALY' is acceptable. Just because it doesn't have any markings on the bail doesn't make it suspect.

I assume you bought the item from a reputable company with some form of refund if you were not 100% delighted with your purchase? If you are not happy, then this may be the way to go. On the other hand, if you feel you paid a fair price for it - keep it and enjoy it.

Like most things in this world - you end up getting what you paid for.

Ring with markings not known

Another Question came through today which needs some thoughts?

QUESTION..?

I found a ring that looks like gold and has some gems on it. There are some stones that look like sapphires and some stones that look like diamonds.

The ring it has the following markings: K or a other letter or symbol that looks like that and then 25 and on the other side of the ring it has HC, also this is not clear. Is this real gold ?

MY ANSWER..!

G'day and many thanks for your query

However there is not a gemologist or valuer in the world who could give you a straight 'Yes or No' from just the description.

I would suggest you take it to your local friendly jeweler who should (even for a small fee) answer your question by testing it.

The Hallmarks you have described simply tell me that it is NOT of British Manufacture as
the Hallmarks sound just like Makers Marks.

You can find more about Hallmarks at this site:
Jewelry Antiques of the 20th Century where they have a free hallmarking course available which might help.

This is a great resource and one which I recommend - because I wrote it!

Have a Great Mother's Day everyone.

Unfortunately - a typical problem

I recently received an email from someone with an appraisal problem which I thought was well worth answering here, so I have added both the question, together with my answer in the hope that it helps.

QUESTION....?

I am an event concierge at the JW Marriott hotel. One of the meetings that I was caring for was a group called [BLANKED OUT]. Their website is [BLANKED OUT].

I bought a tennis bracelet for my mother from this guy there and he claimed it was a 14k gold, Class A man made sapphire and man made diamond bracelet. I don't know what I was thinking when I bought the bracelet without doing some research but I bought it for 211 dollars.

When I got the piece home, I looked it over and it is stamped 925 which is silver instead of gold. I was concerned that the piece was gold plated so I called the number listed on the website and spoke with this lady who told me that the bracelet was indeed 14k gold but it was reinforced with a silver wire thus the .925 stamp.

She said it was not considered goldplated b/c it was thick gold mostly solid gold over a reinforcing wire of silver. Does that make sense?
The piece is also stamped CZC. What does that mean?

I am concerned that I was taken for a fool and bought something that is nowhere near its worth. Can you tell me if I goofed up or not. The lady that I spoke with assured me that it would not tarnish and that it was not plated so it wouldn't peel or chip.

She said it had a lifetime warranty as long as I didn't wash my hands in acid. Im a bit worried. How much would you suspect my 50 stone (25 man made sapphire 25 man made diamond), 14k gold stamped 925 czc to be worth?


ANSWER....!

G'day and many thanks for your query

The first thing I would be doing is check to see if there was any form of guarantee or money back available for this item and get a refund - if possible.

Now don't get me wrong here. The item is priced quite fair for what you paid and is comparable with similar items in retail stores - but you certainly have purchased a silver bracelet plated with 14k gold and set with all synthetic gems.

Man made Sapphires are STILL real sapphires except they are made by man instead of coming out of the ground. In many cases they are almost too perfect because they still have the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the natural gem - so they are real - just not natural.

Sapphires like this are fairly cheap and Cubic Zirconias (CZ) are even cheaper. All in all you received what you paid for, so you are not a fool.

But if you are not happy - get a refund.

Hope this helps.

MORAL OF STORY - Buyer Beware....

Testing sterling silver

Recently had a question which I though would be worth sharing:

Hi, I have a question on how to test for silver. I don't know if after rubbing on touchstone and appling acid, does the mark turn a special color?

This was my reply which may help those with a similar problem....

Firstly it is important to realise that you do NOT use a touchstone for Silver.
You should test the article itself.

Lightly scratch or scuff a small spot which is not seen (like underneath a silver teapot or inside a ring band etc) and apply Nitric Acid to the spot.

If it turns a cloudy grey color it is Sterling Silver. If it turns black it is Coin Silver. What you don't want is for it to turn green which indicates it is plated.

You must ensure you make the scratch deep enough to go beneath any plating though, else it won't react as it has to reach any base metal underneath. This can be a little unsightly so make sure it is in an unobtrusive area.

Be very careful with Nitric Acid too...

Hope this helps. I am sure there is some useful information on the Antique Jewery of the 20th Century website.

Easter and I'm all Egged Out..!

Groucho Marx once said - "Thanks for Coming - Thanks for Going" and I have to say I feel exactly the same about Easter.

Sure it's full of fun and the Chocolate is Great - But there's a downside....

People get presents for Easter and Jewelry is part of that. Do you know how hard it is to handle all the Valuation Appraisals around the family at this time? Horrendous....

Great Aunts we haven't seen since Christmas suddenly appear with "Look what your Uncle Henry bought me this year..." and then lower their voices to a whisper..." What do you think it's Worth?"

I spend the better part of the long weekend Vacation measuring, weighing, pressing my eyeglass to the cheek bone, deciphering Hallmarks and writing long lists of features and formulas and calculations onto scraps of paper all over my kitchen.

Don't these people know they can go ONLINE and do a Jewelry Appraisal in less than 15 minutes themselves? It's safe - it's easy - it even writes the description for you, and all for less than the price of an average chocolate egg!

"Thanks for coming.... Thanks for Going... See you for Mother's Day!"

Jewelry Valuation Appraisal Problem

I recently received an email from a client with regard valuing an Antique 18ct Watch Chain, and it made me realize that people don't understand the difference between NEW jewelry and OLD jewelry when it comes to an Appraisal.

At the Valuations Online Database there is a built in formula to calculate these differences, but the basics remain that ALL Valuation Appraisals stem from a single MASTER price based on the REPLACEMENT FOR INSURANCE price.

An Antique, Secondhand, Vintage or Estate item is simply a proportion of this original MASTER valuation. No more - no less.

A visit to the only online appraisal system in the world not only explains this difference, but allows anyone to do their own Valuation Appraisal and Print their Certificate right there on the Desktop at Home or Work.

Can't be any easier than that...

You say Jewellery - I say Jewelry

One of the major problems with running a company for International clients is the wording of the English language.

Apart from the two examples in the title of this post, there is also the problems with the words 'JEWELRY APPRAISALS' and 'JEWELLERY VALUATION' which basically mean the same thing - but to different parts of the world.

Another classic for the Jewelry Trade is 'CARAT' vs 'KARAT' and the mixup up between the quality of gold and the weight of gemstones.

Phew! Why do we bother?

Well the good news is at the Valuation Appraisal Center the online software program which anyone can use, takes all these things into account depending on which country you are from, and then prints out a Certificate in your currency (choice of seven) with all this little spellings taken into account. How cool is that?

New Update for Jewelry Trade

For the past four hectic days we have been updating the Jewelry Appraisal Center, and in particular, the Jewelry Trade Business section.

Power Users now have more functionality available and the Bulk Purchase price of Valuation Certificates have also been incorporated into the Sales - Order - Purchase process.

If yesterday was anything to go by - it's going to be a busy time for Jewelry Appraisals over the coming months.

If you haven't tried it yet, remember the Jewelry Industry has an opportunity to a FREE complimentary Trial. How can you loose?

New Month - New Jewelry Goals

My Grandfather was born on the 1st April 1885 (so he'd be quite old if her were alive today).
But in a way, maybe he still is...

He was always the 'Action' type in that he would be doing SOMETHING.

So I take that generic trait and do the same on the Internet.

We have been working steadily on bringing a new interface for the Jewelry Appraisal Center
which is 99.9 % complete, plus we have been working on access to the Valuation Manager Interface for the Casual Users of the program. They will find a HUGE difference on handling their jewelry appraisals or renewing the Certificates.

Stay tuned - it should be online in just a couple of days - And that's NO April Fool...!

Photos on your Jewelry Appraisals

Recently had an email from a client in France who sells jewellery through the European eBay Market. She has seen a significant increase in sales (32% plus) since she placed photos on her Online Jewelry Appraisal Certificates.

I have mentioned this before to you, but I just thought it was worth repeating.

Don't teach some young assistant JUST to write appraisals - get them to take photos and upload them to the Center.

Most young ones know how to do digital photos and transfer them to their computers anyway....

More on this subject as it comes to hand.

Jewelry Appraisal Center Gets New Makeover

The King is dead - long live the King

And so says all those who have been involved in the New Makeover for the Jewelry Appraisal Center at http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.com/

The site now is faster and more user friendly. The menus have all been grouped so you can find your way around without too much trouble.

Personally - I just like the colors. ;-)

Why not drop by and put it to the test - you can even make a comment in their blog.

Jewelry Trade Appraisals

For those Manufacturers, Wholesalers, Retails and Market Traders, there is a great resource available for you, designed to improve your bottom line and put more money in your pockets.

This VERY powerful tool is Free for you to try, so just hop over to this address and put it to the test. After all - What have you got to loose?

http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.biz/

Just follow the links on the right side of the page to the Business B2b Center.

What you need for a Self Appraisal.

The VERY first thing you need is the Online Jewelry Appraisal Center and everything in it....

They provide a HUGE amount of information both at the website and inside the Self Appraisal Kit itself, plus the site is constantly changing and upgrading with new articles and statistics including original Victorian and Edwardian jewelry drawings from manufacturing catalogues of the period. Invaluable.

You would do well to bookmark the Online Jewelry Appraisal Center into your Favorites list.

If you have previous documentation, that will certainly help.

The original store receipt or invoice from your jeweler, or even old Appraisal Certificates which are now out of date. They may all contain weights, quality and identification details about the Jewelry you wish to value.

You will need TWO PIECES OF INEXPENSIVE equipment.

An Eyeglass and a Ruler. We realize that you do not wish to become experts in the field of Gemology and Jewelry Valuation Appraisals, but just need a few Hints and Tips as to a BASIC understanding on Gold, Gems and Antiques.

The list we have suggested will be the Best Investment you will ever make in the field of Jewelry Identification and Appraisal. Nothing here will cost more than a few dollars.

Introduction to Jewelry Appraisals

For most of you, the thought of getting a Valuation or Appraisal on your Jewelry is NOT at the top of your list. But it should be...

To often, clients assume that their Jewelry is either....

• Not Valuable enough to bother
• Covered by their Household insurance
• Safe on their Finger, so it won't get lost.

All of these are WRONG and we cover some suggestions in our insurance article and the security pages under the Learning Section of the Jewelry Appraisal Center.

If you are concerned about these matters and haven't had the chance to read them yet, we suggest you take a little side trip and cover the bases as soon as possible....

....Before the ring falls off the finger, or the chain gets lost while swimming, or the Diamond (was it a Diamond?)....

Get the Picture..?

That's exactly What a Jewelry Appraisal Valuation Certificate is for....

Jewelry Appraisals

Finally I have bitten the Blog Bullet and hopped over here to Blogger to start my online Jewelry Appraisal or Valuation advice section. Over the coming months we shall develop a series of examples using the principles and formulas used by gemologists and valuers all around the world.

After 35 years in the industry, specializing in Antique and Vintage Jewelry, I hope I will be able to answer any and all of your questions. If you need further information you can always get hold of me through my website at: http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.com/