Monday, July 31, 2006

Gold Bracelet Hallmarks

Jewelry Maker's Marks are the hardest to find as you will see from this recent query I had.

QUESTION..? I HAVE AN OLD LINK STYLE SHAMROCK BRACELET MARKED 14K...C+B...I ASSUME C+B IS A MAKERS MARK BUT I CAN FIND NO INFORMATION ON THIS MAKER ANYWHERE! PLEASE HELP!

ANSWER..! You are correct in saying the 14K (NOT a British Hallmark) is for 14 carat gold and the CB is as you suggested a Makers or design mark.

However; after date letter hallmarks, Maker's Marks are the Hardest to get classified as anyone can make jewelry, and any country can produce jewelry without complying to any register.

This makes the NON-FAMOUS jewelers out there, almost impossible to find.

You might (if you have a lot of time available) like to browse one of my favorite websites at this address: http://home.wxs.nl/~luijt005/hallm.htm or you might like to slip over to Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century at: http://www.jewellery-antiques.com where you can sign up for a bonus Hallmarking 4 part email course.

Even though it's for British Hallmarks, I'm sure you will learn a great deal from it.

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Are these Pearls Really Real?

Has this ever happened to you? I would love to hear from anyone with a similar experience with pearls or any other gemstone or jewelry item. As usual - here's a clients query...

QUESTION..?

I have a strand of pearls that I believe were my grandmothers, possibly bought by my father in Japan. There is a marking on the clasp "KIO". Do you know if this would be a metal marking? Or of significance to the pearls origins?

Thank you for your time.

ANSWER..!

The Mark 'KIO' is probably a Makers Mark or Model design stamp, but unfortunately doesn't mean anything to me.

Not that I want to put a damper on your treasure, but there were many soldiers who during the Korean War bought what they were told were Ruby - These gemstones turned out to be nothing more than polished glass, cut from the red tail lights stolen from their jeeps!

The same thing happened throughout Asia, especially Japan, only this time they were told they were Mikimoto Pearls (which they were not) but simply glass simulations.

You firstly need to take the pearls to your local Jeweler who can at least confirm if they are Natural, Cultured or synthetic. Once you know that, you can decide to proceed with a full appraisal by going to your local gemologist appraiser or you might like to try the Online Service at the Jewelry Appraisal Center.

Hope this helps.

Thursday, July 27, 2006

Antique Cameo Gold Hallmarks

There are always queries about Hallmarks as they seem to be the most complicated issue facing jewelry collectors worldwide. Here is another example from a client...

QUESTION..?

I am trying to find out the age and origin of an old cameo my son found several years ago. It appears to be made out of shell and is of a Roman or Greek godess. The frame it is set in has a t-pin with a c-clasp and a bale. The only markings on it are the letters KIL stamped into the frame. If you can't give me an age perhaps you have some information on the origin from the markings. Thank You for your time. Sincerely...

ANSWER..!

The Roman or Greek Godess design is a classic and very common form of the shell cameo, so that doesn't help much in classifying the item, especially as it only has a t-pin or 'Spring Pin and Hook' clasp.

Better quality items would have a slide lock clasp and WOULD be Hallmarked.

I assume you have had a very close examination around the INSIDE BACK of the frame, but the KIL mark doesn't mean anything special either (a makers mark?).

Also check around the clasp both at the hinge and hook sections as sometimes marks are placed there.

Other than that, there is not a lot I can do to help you. Try your local Antique dealer (or 2) and get as many opinions as possible.

There is a FREE Hallmarking Guide at: http://www.jewellery-antiques.com which is more for British Marks but it might help you understand Hallmarks a little better.

Hope this helps.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

What is 925 marking in Jewelry?

Hallmarks and what they mean, continue to be a problem for many people.

This question recently came in, and I though sharing it would help others...

QUESTION..?

I inherited a necklace with the marking 925 on it. It is a braided tri-color necklace and is stamped "Italy". Knowing it was made in Italy, can you please tell me what the 925 means?

Thank you

ANSWER..!

The 925 (sometimes shown as .925) is the decimal mark for Sterling Silver which is graded out of 1000 (being pure silver).

Don't let the other colors fool you - they are simply colored silver too.

Items like this (braided tri-color) are a standard and very pretty item, in which the Italians make the very best.

Hope this helps. You occasionally see these on eBay or at: http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com/

Saturday, July 08, 2006

What Does Milligrain Mean?

A Recent Question on the term - Milligrain - recently came up, and it made me wonder just what else people need to Know about Jewelry Design and Construction?

Please let me know as we are in the Process of writing an 'Insider's Guide To Jewelry Design' which is fully illustrated with Antique and Estate Jewelry items.

Anyway - here is the Question?

Hi, can you tell me what milligrain means, as in a gold double milligrain ring?

And have you ever heard of ep (I guess it's letters, not a word) used in conjunction with gold?

Is 18k gold the best for a ring? I would love to not be ripped off. Thanks!

Answer!

Milligrain is a design feature Jewelers use to decorate their gold or silver items, and is simply a series of dots or 'grains' (of gold) in a row which forms a line or rim or pattern like this:

::::::::::::::::
And is often seen as a single row or double row especially around the gemstone settings.

And yes - 18ct would be about the best quality for jewelry as it's high in gold (18 parts from 24 carats) without being too soft (pure gold 24ct is really too soft and wears easily).

We sometimes get Milligrain rings at our Antique Jewelry Fair website at http://www.antique-jewelry-fair.com/

Hope this helps.